Wristwatches – for many men, the only piece of jewelry they ever wear.
These watches fascinate on multiple levels. Especially those with mechanical movements, they seem like relics of a bygone era. It's remarkable how they've remained relevant and continue to be daily companions for many, even when their primary necessity has been surpassed by technology.
A wristwatch might appear as a single entity, but it's actually composed of numerous distinct components, which we'll delve into below.
A wristwatch comprises a case, a strap, and a clasp. The bezel, dial, and glass are positioned atop the case, and there's always a crown on its side. Additionally, each watch has at least two hands connected to the movement. The movement, the heart of the watch, can be mechanical or quartz-based and battery-operated.
- The External Components
- Components of a Mechanical Movement
- Components of a Quartz Movement
- Complications you need to know
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The External Components
To understand the anatomy of a wristwatch, let's first focus on the external, easily visible components.
The Case
The case is the most prominent element of a watch, acting as the central anchor for all other components.
Think of the case as a frame that houses and protects the movement while also supporting the dial, glass, and bezel. It also connects to the bracelet or strap.
It's akin to the frame of eyeglasses onto which the lenses are mounted.
The case serves as a foundation for the entire watch.
Regarding its appearance, the case largely determines the watch's shape.
Typically, it's the round or oval section underneath the glass, encircling the bezel.
Turning the watch over reveals the shape even more distinctly at the case back. Some watches feature transparent case backs, allowing admiration of the movement within.
Cases are available in myriad materials and shapes. Particularly for luxury watches, common materials include gold, stainless steel, and ceramics.
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The Dial
The dial is a pivotal component of a watch, serving as its primary information provider.
Positioned beneath the glass, the dial showcases indices the hour markers that indicate time. Indices can be Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, lines, or various geometric shapes, and come in an array of colors and designs.
Furthermore, the dial typically displays the brand and sometimes the model's name.
In some unique instances, watches lack a dial altogether, such as skeletonized watches.
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The Bezel
Atop the dial is a ring designed to protect the glass: the bezel.
While most bezels are round, there are exceptions, like the square Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or the octagonal Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet.
The bezel's texture can vary, with corrugated and plain (either satin or polished) being popular choices.
In some designs, bezels utilize alternative materials like ceramics or are adorned with diamonds.
Ceramic bezels often display additional markers like 24-hour or 60-minute scales or tachymeters, especially prevalent in sports watches. Some bezels can even rotate.
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The Glass
The glass is perpetually in view but remains unnoticed.
It resides within the bezel, sealing the watch, ideally airtight, to prevent dust or moisture ingress.
Different watches sport different glasses: synthetic, hard natural glass, or the esteemed sapphire glass. For a more in-depth look, we have a dedicated article on watch glasses.
Occasionally, the glass features a 'cyclops eye', a magnifying element to enhance date visibility.
The Hands
A watch's hands are essential. Without them, its primary function is void.
Mounted centrally, these slender pieces move circularly to denote time.
All watches have hour and minute hands, and many include a seconds hand.
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The crown
What differentiates a king from a watch? A watch wears its crown on the side.
The crown, typically on the case's right side, adjusts the watch's time. She's connected to the gear train directly.
Additional buttons might flank the crown, accessing other watch functionalities like a chronograph.
Crown placement is strategic, allowing easy adjustments using the thumb and index finger.
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The Bracelet
Of course, the watch only transforms into a wristwatch when paired with a strap.
One challenging aspect of watch design is ensuring the bracelet harmoniously complements the watch. It's usually attached via screws or eyelets.
Like all watch components, bracelets come in diverse materials: metal, leather, rubber, ceramics, textiles, and more.
Leather or fabric straps, with their multiple eyelets, offer easy adjustability. Metal bracelets require adding or removing links for the right fit.
To address this, some brands, like Rolex, have introduced systems like the 'easylink' for adjustments.
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The Clasp
The clasp ensures the watch is securely and comfortably fastened.
If your watch has a leather bracelet it’s most likely that the clasp works identical to a belt. A bow and a stick on one end hold the eyelet on the other side.
The clasp on metalstraps is a little more complex. To bring the bracelet to the right size, there is a hinge which folds.
Simultaneously, on the other side of the hinge, the clasp clicks in to position with a hook. To release it, most often there is a button somewhere around the clasp.
